Your Road Map
In this step-by-step guide, we’ll replace the dozens of products you currently use on your body and around your home with a few simple ingredients. Starting with—you guessed it—soap.
This sequence is just a suggested progression, starting with some fairly easy actions that offer big benefits. But if you get stuck on a particular step, don’t sweat it—just pick a different one.
Check out these videos for more information and a preview of what’s to come. Or scroll down to the table of contents and get started!
ROADMAP
Part 1: Start with Soap (must read!)
Choose Your Soap
Handwashing
Laundry
Home Fragrance
Dishwashing
Home Cleaning
Personal Care (hair, bath and body, etc.)
Part 2: Beyond Soap
Lawncare and Pest Control
Composting
Using this Site
Questions or Feedback?
Part 1: Start with Soap!
A true soap, not a detergent.
What’s the difference? I’ll explain briefly, and if your interest is piqued, you can check out this more detailed discussion of the differences and the health implications.
“Soap” has been made for thousands of years, while “detergents” are a synthetic product developed only relatively recently, gaining popularity around World War II.
Today, unless you are intentionally avoiding them, detergents are likely in every personal care and home cleaning product that you own. And not just your “laundry detergent” or “dishwasher detergent.” They’re also in shampoo, conditioner, body wash, lotion, lip balm, deodorant, toothpaste, and a whole host of other things. And here is where it gets confusing—the word “soap” appears on all kinds of products that are actually “detergents.” So even your “hand soap” is probably a detergent.
Why does it matter?
Detergents have been shown to weaken the skin barrier, increasing its permeability and allowing things that should stay in (like moisture) to come out, and allowing things that should stay out (like allergens, bacteria, and chemicals) to come in. And the same thing happens to our lung and gut barriers when we ingest and inhale detergent residues.
This matters, because barrier disfunction of the skin, lungs, and gut is associated with eczema, food allergies, asthma, and autoimmune disorders, as well as autism, Alzheimer’s disease, depression, and a whole host of other chronic ailments.
And—this is big—detergent-based products tend to include a lot of other junk, like preservatives, fragrance, dyes, and other harsh chemicals that are not good for us or for the environment.
So let’s ditch all of that by switching to a single, simple product that we can use for just about everything. A true soap.
Alright, are you ready? Let’s get started with soap!
Choose Your Soap
To get started, you’ll need to choose your form of soap—bar, flakes, or liquid concentrate.
Use the table below (or watch this video) to decide which form of soap is right for you. Then decide where you’ll buy it.
You can buy bar soap, soap flakes, and other items at the Start with Soap Store. If you’re unsure where to start, I recommend soap flakes. They’re simple and versatile.
Dr. Bronner’s is a liquid concentrate that is readily available in retail stores.
Feel free to explore your options! The important thing is to avoid harsh detergents and the other junk that often accompanies them. You do not have to buy our soap to accomplish that.
Handwashing
Switch to a true soap for all of your handwashing at home. In doing so, you’ll cut out harsh detergents and all of the junk—preservatives, fragrance, dyes, and other undesirable chemicals—that often accompanies them.
Read on (or watch this video) to learn how to make this simple switch.
Handwashing Guide
You’ll need:
Soap (bar, soap flakes, or liquid concentrate)
Foaming dispenser for each sink (unnecessary for bar soap)
How to:
Store your current detergent-based products for handwashing in a storage tub or box. (On the off chance you miss your old products, you can just pull them back out of your box.)
Place a true soap—either a bar or a soap dispenser—at each bathroom and kitchen sink. See below for instructions for different types of soap.
Wash your hands!
Bonus action: Use the exact same soap for handwashing dishes, cleaning your kitchen counter, or cleaning your body in the bath or shower. This is the soap we will use for everything, everywhere! If you’re not ready to go beyond handwashing yet, no worries—we’ll get there.
Step 2 for different types of soap:
Bar Soap
No instructions needed! Just set the bar of soap next to the sink. Maybe thrift a soap dish, or use a small plate or bowl or even an empty container or lid from your recycling.
Soap Flakes
Soap flakes are just that—flakes of soap. Imagine taking a bar of soap and grating it into small flakes, which dissolve easily in warm water.
Read on (or watch the videos) to learn how to make soap concentrate, and then how to use that concentrate to fill foaming dispensers.
Make Your Soap Concentrate: Add roughly 1/2 cup of soap flakes to a pint mason jar. Add 12 oz. hot water (ideally purified and not quite boiling) to the jar, and let the jar sit until the soap flakes have dissolved and the solution has cooled Cap mason jar, and store for use as concentrate. (Refer to “Making Soap Flake Concentrate” video for this step.)
Fill Your Foaming Dispensers: Add roughly 1/4 cup of concentrate to your foaming dispenser. Add roughly 10 oz. of cool water (ideally purified) to the dispenser. Be sure to keep the water level below the foaming mechanism, or it will break. Screw on the top, swirl or shake gently, and you’re ready to go. Adjust the consistency to your liking by adding more concentrate to thicken, or more water to thin. (Refer to “Handwashing with Soap” video for this step—skip to 5:58 to cut to the chase.)
Making your concentrate and filling your dispensers for the first time can be a little daunting. Do it once, and you’ll realize it’s super simple—you’ve got this!
Liquid Concentrate
Liquid concentrate is concentrated soap that comes in liquid (as opposed to solid bar or flake) form, such as Dr. Bronner’s.
To fill a foaming dispenser, follow the dilution ratio for your particular product. As an example, Dr. Bronner’s suggests a ratio of 1 part soap to 3 parts water (i.e. 1/4 cup liquid concentrate mixed with 3/4 cup water).
Laundry
Our skin is in constant contact with our clothes, which means it is in constant contact with laundry detergent residue. (Yes, even after a full wash and rinse cycle, the laundry detergent residue remaining in our clothing is enough to damage our skin barrier.)
This perpetual exposure, day in and day out, adds up! Ditching the chemicals in your laundry detergent (even the detergent formulations marketed for sensitive skin) can have a huge impact on skin health—my husband credits this as the single biggest factor in resolving his eczema.
And don’t fret about cleaning performance here—soap works! So many people who identify as “sweaty and stinky” are amazed by how well soap cleans up dirt and odors from the grossest of gym clothes—even better than the detergents they used previously.
Detergent residue can persist in clothing for a long time, even after washing with soap. Detergent residue can also “cling to stink” (this is one reason why gym clothes can seem perpetually stinky), so you may have a transition period from detergent to soap—stick with it, and it will pass!
Read on (or watch this video) to learn how to make this simple switch. And if you’re interested, check out my blog discussing recent research related to this topic.
Laundry Guide
You’ll need:
Laundry powder—a mixture of finely ground soap flakes (so that they dissolve readily in the wash), baking soda, and washing soda
You can buy this ready-made mix at the Start with Soap Store, or you can make your own.
How to:
Store your detergent-based laundry products in your box—this includes laundry detergent, fabric softeners, dryer sheets, stain remover, and anything else you put in your washer or dryer.
Use the laundry powder for all of your laundry.
Recommended amount: 1 tbsp for a normal load, 2 tbsp for a particularly large or dirty load, and 3 tbsp for super dirty loads.
If you have a high efficiency machine, I recommend using a setting that maximizes water (soap—and even detergent, for that matter—needs water to clean away dirt and odors).
If you’re washing in cold water, dissolve your laundry powder in a cup of warm water, then add the warm water mixture to the washing machine. If you’re washing in warm water, then no need to pre-dissolve.
Home Fragrance
Alright, this one is not strictly related to soap, but it’s so important (and so easy) that I’m sneaking it in here.
Synthetic fragrance is almost as ubiquitous as detergent. “Fragrance” is likely an ingredient in nearly every personal care and home cleaning product that you own.
This is particularly irksome, because when “fragrance” is listed as an ingredient, it’s not referring to one specific thing. Rather, “fragrance” is a generic term that can include several thousand different chemicals, none of which need be individually identified. It can include chemicals that create the odor, as well as chemicals that act as solvents, stabilizers, masking agents, preservatives, and other functional additives. These ingredients are not regulated by governmental agencies—the fragrance industry, itself, determines what chemicals may be used.
“Fragrance” is problematic, because synthetic fragrance (as opposed to high-quality essential oil) is linked to maladies ranging from breathing difficulties and headaches, to problems with the immune system, nervous system, and reproductive system, to behavioral and developmental problems in children.
But there is good news. By switching to soap for handwashing and laundry, you have already eliminated a ton of synthetic fragrance from your home—good work!
And more good news. You can eliminate home fragrance products—like candles, air fresheners, and room sprays—to dramatically improve your indoor air quality. These home fragrance products especially impact indoor air quality, because they are designed to carry pollutants—including the “fragrance” that you smell and other chemicals that you don’t—into the air.
When you eliminate home fragrance, you may experience improved respiratory health, especially for sensitive individuals, as well as a reduced burden on the immune system and nervous system, among other things.
For more on the what/where/why of fragrance, as well as how to use essential oils to aid your transition away from home fragrance, head to this page.
And okay, I said this one is easy, but I do realize that giving up scented candles can be very challenging for some. We form strong attachments to our favorite smells, so it makes sense! But give it a try, and after your nose and lungs have had a chance to adjust, you may rediscover an appreciation for natural smells and realize that synthetic fragrance doesn’t feel quite right in your nose, throat, and chest.
Guide to Eliminating Fragrance
You’ll need:
Nothing!
(Unless you want to diffuse essential oils, in which case you’ll need a few supplies, some of which you may already have around your house.)
How to:
Add your scented candles, air fresheners, room sprays, and any other home fragrance products to your storage tub or box.
If scent in your home is desired, replace home fragrance with a diffuser and high-quality essential oils, used mindfully (suggestions here).
Dishwashing
We ingest small amounts of the products we use to clean our dishes.
Yep, it’s true. Residue of the products we use in the dishwasher or for washing dishes by hand remains on our dishware, where it then comes into contact with our food.
So let’s avoid detergents, preservatives, fragrance, and other harsh chemicals that we would never consciously choose to ingest.
For handwashing, we can clean our dishes with the exact same soap that we use for our hands (and everything else).
For the dishwasher, I could never get a soap recipe to work quite right, so I recommend a minimalist dishwasher powder (details below). This is one of the very few times (maybe the only time?) that I recommend a product that is (1) not soap and (2) “single-purpose.” But on the bright side, this product works, and it enables us to avoid the ingredients found in conventional dishwasher detergents.
Don’t like citric acid (one of the ingredients in the dishwasher powder)? I hear you. I am currently experimenting with washing soda straight onto the floor of the dishwasher, and a bowl of vinegar on the top rack—stay tuned.
Read on (or watch this video) to learn how to make this simple switch. And if you’re interested, here is more on dishwashing—including my dishwasher trials and tribulations.
Dishwashing Guide
You’ll need:
Soap—the exact same soap you use for washing hands at the kitchen sink
Baking soda (optional)
Dishwasher powder—you can purchase from the Start with Soap Store, or I also recommend this product from Mama Suds (this is not an affiliate link—just a product that I like). Although the two products have very similar ingredients, dishwashers vary significantly, and people have had better luck with one or the other depending on their machines.
How to:
Handwashing dishes
Use the soap you keep by your kitchen sink to hand wash your dishes and pots and pans. Simple as that!
For stubborn gunk on pots and pans, sprinkle a little baking soda on the gunk, add enough water to make a paste, and let it sit. Finish washing with soap and water. Repeat, if needed. Note: baking soda is somewhat abrasive, so use carefully on surfaces prone to scratching.
Dishwasher
Rinse dishes thoroughly, using soap to remove stubborn gunk, as needed. Seriously, don’t put crusty dishes in your dishwasher.
Add about 1 tablespoon of dishwasher powder to the compartment, and run as usual.
Optional: You can add white vinegar to the rinse aid dispenser, or pour some into a shallow bowl facing upright on the top rack (it will splash out over the course of the cycle) to reduce water spots.
Home Cleaning
If you glean only one thing from this entire section, let it be this:
“Cleaning” is different from “disinfecting.” Clean with soap and water first, and then ask whether disinfecting is necessary.
We tend to conflate “cleaning” with “disinfecting,” and as a result, disinfectants are overused.
Here is a discouraging example. When my older son was in first grade, his former school had kids disinfecting surfaces multiple times per day. That, in and of itself, is not okay—the EPA, which regulates disinfectants, warns that children should not apply disinfectants, including disinfectant wipes, and that improper use of these products can harm children’s health.
It gets worse. Some of his classmates would finish wiping down their desks, and then they would use the disinfectant wipes to wipe their hands. And then their mouths.
Guys, this is really not okay.
But what do we expect? It’s not the kids’ fault.
We—as adults—have become desensitized to the overuse of disinfectants. And the effect is magnified in the next generation. To the point that a disinfectant wipe is perceived as no different from a wet washcloth.
That’s on us. So let’s correct course, right here, right now.
You do not need harsh chemicals to clean your home. I mean it. For most purposes, soap, baking soda, and vinegar can perform at least as well as commercial cleaners. You just need to know which one to use in which circumstances, and that’s what we’re going to discuss here.
Guide to Home Cleaning
You’ll need:
Soap concentrate (the same concentrate you use for filling soap dispensers, whether that’s made from soap flakes or ready-to-use liquid concentrate)
Distilled white vinegar
Baking soda
Lemon or orange essential oil (optional)
2 Spray bottles
Rags (repurpose old t-shirts, towels, washcloths, etc.)
How to:
Prepare your soap spray bottle. Mix 2 tbsp. soap concentrate with 15 oz. purified water in one spray bottle. Amounts will vary based on the size of your bottle. Use for everyday cleaning of non-porous surfaces.
Prepare your vinegar spray bottle. Mix 1 part vinegar with 3 parts purified water in a separate spray bottle. Optionally, add a few drops of orange or lemon essential oil for extra degreasing power. After cleaning with soap, wipe down with vinegar for a spotless, streak-free finish (e.g., glass, mirrors).
Keep these on hand (along with baking soda) to clean everything in your home. See suggested applications below.
Cleaning vs. Disinfecting
To continue the theme above, let’s get straight on some vocabulary.
“Cleaning” with soap and water removes dirt and germs. “Disinfecting” kills the germs that remain after cleaning.
Did you know that “cleaning” is always the first step before “disinfecting”? That’s because dirt makes it harder for disinfectants—even commercial disinfectants—to reach germs. Plus, if you don’t clean first, you’re just smearing dirt around.
That means that before you reach for a disinfectant spray or a disinfectant wipe, you should clean with soap and water first.
So clean with soap and water first—because you have to, anyway—and then ask whether disinfecting is necessary.
Is it ever necessary? Yes. We’ll get to that in a minute.
Cleaning vs. Disinfecting
Cleaning with soap and water removes dirt and germs. Clean first, then ask whether disinfecting is necessary.
Disinfecting kills germs. Dirt makes it harder for disinfectants to reach germs, which is why cleaning with soap and water is always the first step.
Daily Cleaning with Soap and Water
Soap is all you need to clean the majority of surfaces in your home on a daily basis (see the CDC guidance on the topic).
For everyday cleaning of non-porous surfaces, simply spray the surface with your soap spray, let it sit for a minute, and then wipe it down with a rag. Then rinse your rag with water and wipe away any soap residue on the surface. If you still notice soap residue, you might try diluting your soap spray with more water, or you can follow up with diluted vinegar spray (see below).
You can use this approach for counters, sinks, bathtubs and showers, tile surfaces, toilets (see additional notes under “Specific Applications” below), and other non-porous surfaces.
Of course, if you have a particularly dirty surface, or if you are particularly concerned about germs, use more soap, water, and elbow grease for a more thorough cleaning. And see the disinfectant considerations below.
Cheat Sheet
Soap washes away dirt and grime. Use soap for cleaning body oils, food stains, and general dirt and grime.
Baking soda is a powerful gunk and stain remover. Make a paste with water (or even with soap) and scrub away stubborn gunk and stains.
Vinegar eliminates soap scum and water spots. After cleaning with soap, wipe down with vinegar for a spotless, streak-free finish. Vinegar also provides a bit of disinfecting power.
Don’t mix vinegar with either soap or baking soda, because you’ll neutralize both of them!
Using Diluted Vinegar, As Needed
There are two reasons that I use my diluted vinegar spray bottle:
To eliminate soap residue and water spots (e.g., on windows, glass, and mirrors), as described in the “Specific Applications” section below; or
For a bit of disinfecting power.
In our home, I use the diluted vinegar spray (after I’ve cleaned with the soap spray) on my kitchen counter after I’ve handled raw meat, on certain hard surfaces in my bathroom every couple of weeks, and anywhere else I want a bit of disinfecting power.
I say “a bit of disinfecting power,” because while vinegar does kill some germs, it does not kill enough to be considered a “disinfectant.”
Personally, I have found vinegar to be sufficient in our home for nearly all purposes. But see below for instances in which you may want a true disinfectant.
When using diluted vinegar, be sure to start by testing a small, inconspicuous spot on your countertops and other surfaces, because vinegar can damage certain materials. I always see this cautionary note about stone surfaces, in particular, so I am mentioning it here, but I also know plenty of people who have used diluted vinegar successfully on such surfaces. Vinegar can also damage grout over time, so when I use it in our tile shower, I follow up by rinsing with water.
Disinfecting
Do disinfectants still have their place? Yes.
When our dishwasher leaked and created a moldy mess in our kitchen and basement, I killed the mold with a true disinfectant (one that was thoughtfully chosen and that does not contain any fragrance, preservatives, or other unnecessary ingredients).
You know the needs of your family best, and perhaps you have circumstances that require more frequent and comprehensive disinfecting with a true disinfectant (e.g., someone with an open wound, a compromised immune system, or other particular needs).
My purpose here is not to tell you what is best for your family, but to encourage intentional usage of disinfecting agents. For example, if you are using a disinfectant out of habit every time you wipe down your kitchen counter or table, I encourage you to clean with soap spray first, and then take a moment to consider whether disinfecting is necessary.
The key takeaway here: clean with soap and water first—because you have to, anyway—and then ask whether disinfecting is necessary.
Removing Gunk and Stains with Baking Soda
Need proof of the power of baking soda? It tackled the unparalleled grime of my backyard chicken’s glassware with ease. Your grimiest of grime has nothing on my “chickenware.”
Here are a few reasons baking soda is awesome for cleaning:
Baking soda is somewhat abrasive, so it is good for scrubbing. (This is why it should be used carefully on surfaces that are prone to scratching.)
Baking soda is basic (high pH), while most odors are acidic (low pH), so baking soda neutralizes those odors.
I saved the best for last. This will blow your mind. When baking soda comes into contact with dirt and grime, which tend to be acidic, saponification occurs. In case your mind is not blown, let me say that again—baking soda turns dirt and grime into soap! No wonder baking soda is so amazing for washing away dirt and grime!
Baking soda has many uses, but my favorite way to use it is to make a paste (with either water or soap from my foaming dispenser) and apply it to stubborn gunk or stains.
For pots and pans, I sprinkle a little baking soda on the gunk, add enough water to make a paste, and let it sit while I clean the rest of the kitchen. Usually, by the end of that time, the baking soda has loosened up the gunk, and I can finish washing with soap and water. Every so often, a second iteration of baking soda paste is required. Note: baking soda is somewhat abrasive, so use carefully on surfaces prone to scratching.
I use the same technique for stubborn gunk on the stove and in the oven.
Or stubborn gunk and grime anywhere for that matter, including toilet bowls.
Specific Cleaning Applications
Windows, glass, and mirrors
Clean these surfaces with your soap spray first in order to remove dirt and grime (and waxy residue from prior commercial cleaners you might have used). Then, wipe down these surfaces with your diluted vinegar spray (you can use a different part of the same rag you used for your soap spray, or you can grab a fresh one) in order to remove soap residue or water spots and leave these surfaces streak-free and spotless.
The results are pretty amazing.
Wood furniture
I simply wipe down wood furniture with a slightly damp rag—mainly to remove dust—and then follow up with a dry rag.
Wood floors
For hard floors, I sweep high-traffic areas regularly (really just the kitchen and areas near the front and back doors), but mopping is a less frequent activity.
For mopping, I have a microfiber mop (the kind with reusable, washable pads that have Velcro strips for sticking onto your mop handle/head). A damp (not soaking wet) microfiber pad is all that I use on my hardwood floors as a general rule. The microfiber pad goes in the wash with all my cleaning rags and is ready for next time.
If there’s a particularly sticky, dirty, or grimy spot (like if food from the dinner table ended up on the floor and turned to glue), then I’ll spot clean with a rag and soap spray.
Bathtubs and Showers
Only soap and water touches our bathtubs. My kids soak in the tub, so I am careful to avoid residue that might irritate skin.
Vinegar can be harsh on grout, so if I use it in our tile shower, I follow it by a rinse with water.
Toilets
Clean the exterior of the toilet with soap spray. Spray the interior of the toilet with soap spray, sprinkle with baking soda, scrub, and flush. Spray the interior and exterior of the toilet with the diluted vinegar spray.
Personal Care
Shampoo is the “final boss” in your soap journey (my husband drew that analogy, and I love it).
Changing haircare and skincare routines can feel like a big hurdle for many people.
So here’s what I have to offer. Below is everything that my family uses for daily personal care and hygiene (yes, this is a comprehensive list—it’s pretty short!). Take a look, and if something piques your interest, go for it. Maybe there is something you want to drop or swap. Take what’s helpful, leave the rest.
Body. Soap for what’s dirty or stinky, and just rinse the rest with water. Either a bar of soap or a plastic foaming dispenser in the tub or shower (same soap that is used for all other purposes; plastic to avoid broken glass in the tub or shower).
Hair. Nothing. Seriously—check out my blog on my family’s “water only” approach to hair care. I realize this is a deal breaker for some, so I am working with family and friends to develop some simple soap-based recipes—stay tuned.
Moisturizing products, like lotion, lip balm, etc. None needed after we went all in on a true soap.
Oral Hygiene
Toothpaste. I love Uncle Harry’s. My favorite is the peppermint toothpaste, but I have also tried the tooth powder and think it’s good. I converted my son to the mild mint toothpaste. If you’re using regular old toothpaste from a tube, there may be an adjustment phase, but ultimately, I think this leaves my mouth feeling much cleaner for much longer than other products. (Note: These products are fluoride free.)
Floss. Unflavored/unscented silk floss coated with candelilla wax. It’s plastic free and compostable.
Tongue scraper. I have been doing this for several years and really enjoy the addition to my oral hygiene routine.
Deodorant. None for me, as I have found I don’t need it. When you eliminate detergents from your laundry, you might realize your “pit problem” is actually a “detergent residue” problem. My husband—who is a hairy, sweaty, stinky human, which I feel compelled to mention for credibility purposes here—uses Pit Stop by Hammond Herbs and is really happy with its performance.
Makeup, etc. Nothing. I know, it’s not for everyone. But after wearing makeup for 20 years and dabbling in various creams and serums and who knows what else, I gotta say, this approach is pretty liberating!
Sunscreen. We tend to use hats and swim shirts, as opposed to sunscreen, and that works well for us. When we need something more, we use Badger. It is the simplest formulation I have found, and it is available in retail stores (I get it at Natural Grocers). Their “Baby” and “Kids” formulations have more ingredients than others (not necessarily “bad” ingredients, just “more,” which can be problematic for us), so I get their “Sport” product.